MILAN (AP) — Anna Wintour paid tribute Friday to Karl Lagerfeld’s generosity and sense of humor as she presented a new fashion exhibition. Elsewhere in Milan, luxury brand Bottega Veneta’s new creative director showcased a collection that draws on the house’s heritage but pushes it toward a forward-dressing consumer.
The American Vogue editor-in-chief said that Lagerfeld, who died this week, “would have loved” the Costume Institute’s upcoming exhibit “Camp: Notes on Fashion” at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, given his “wonderful sense of humor.”
“Karl was the very best benefactor and collaborator, as erudite as he was generous,” Wintour said.
Highlights from the third day of Milan Fashion Week previewing designs for the upcoming fall and winter:
BOTTEGA VENETA’S NEW DIRECTION
Bottega Veneta took a sharp turn under its new creative director Daniel Lee.
The young British designer’s first collection since joining the brand, owned by the French group Kering, incorporated Bottega’s trademark “intreccio” weave in innovative ways while taking its core leather accessories in a fresh direction.
An oversized weave on a red knitwear tunic emphasized the weave’s inherent grace. The weave was left open on a leather skirt for a laser-cut effect, while a repeating tab technique created leather coats for him and her with a slight wave effect. Bags included molded leather in fresh geometric shapes.
Lee put a lot of emphasis on the neckline, which scooped, dipped and performed other more complicated geometric tricks. A leather tuxedo shirt with a plunging neckline was paired with an ice-green quilted skirt with a puffer coat aesthetic.
For men, knitwear looks were overlapped with large open panels and modernized necklines. A man’s coat had wide shoulders, and was kept short for an overall square silhouette, and worn over an all-leather biker ensemble.
Overall, the collection projected a hardness with lots of leather and hardware, but the designer’s softer side came through in knitwear and pieces like a mirrored coat for women that moved like silk.
CAMP AS FASHION’S ZEITGEIST
The Costume Institute’s new blockbuster exhibition focuses on the role of “camp” in fashion, drawing from many pieces featured in recent runway shows including Gucci, Viktor & Rolf and Palomo Spain.
The show will include a Lagerfeld creation — a 1987 Chanel look inspired by Versailles — among 120 that he donated to the Met’s Costume Institute.
Presenting the exhibition in Milan, Wintour expressed her gratitude for Lagerfeld, whom she described as a “great friend and an important donor,” her voice cracking as she spoke.
Curator Andrew Bolton says camp has been used “as an escape but also a tool for political criticism.”
“I think camp has this … playful sort of approach to the Zeitgeist. … It’s a reaction and a reflection of the times we are living,” he said.
The exhibit, sponsored by Gucci, will include pieces from creative director Alessandro Michele’s fall and winter 2018-2019 collections. It runs from May 9 to Sept. 8 at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York.
“The exhibition in some ways belongs to the DNA of what I have done in these years,” Michele said. “Camp isn’t only a word created to explain how much you can be extravagant, exaggerated. It is that thing that hides the great power of clothes and the great power of appearance.”